Rising up in Crestone, Colorado, a small mountain city with a inhabitants of 200, you might say designer Ella Mae wasn’t precisely raised in a method hub. But, at 5 years outdated she already knew she was destined to turn out to be a clothier.
“I at all times felt like I used to be too massive for Crestone,” she tells Fashionista. “I at all times wished to make loopy outfits. I used to be simply so obsessive about trend for so long as I can keep in mind.” She’d present as much as faculty — in her class of two individuals — carrying daring outfits. Finally, Mae’s mom taught her sew, and from there, she locked in to her pursuit of design.
The budding designer’s first official stepping stone in constructing her profession was attending the Rhode Island Faculty of Design (RISD) to hone her expertise. “RISD fully formed my tastes and nice tuned the artistry in my mind,” she says. “I at all times had dedication to wish to sew and wish to create, however then I believe I got here out of RISD figuring out, ‘Okay, that is what I wish to create that displays me.'”
Upon graduating in 2021, she knew she was able to launch her eponymous model. That first 12 months, she juggled operating her model whereas additionally working as an assistant designer at Simkhai. In 2022, she dedicated to operating Ella Mae full-time.
Ella Mae Spring 2026.
Photograph: Sarah Shen/Courtesy of Ella Mae
The Los Angeles-based label is thought for its “female utilitarianism” codes, Mae explains, including, “I undoubtedly really feel like now we have some signatures now which have actually solidified us.” Stated signatures embrace romantic ruffles, massive gathered hemlines and numerous makes use of of twisting ties.
“Our buyer is somebody who’s female and desires to really feel empowered in that femininity and embrace romanticism with objective,” she says of her clientele. However that is to not be confused with Ella Mae solely catering to ladies: The model has attracted a variety of consumers, from outdated to younger, from males to nonbinary people, from metropolis dwellers to suburbanites.
For Mae, creating an inclusive, secure house has been precisely what she meant for the reason that model’s inception. “Once I got down to make Ella Mae, I actually wished to make an area that was virtually anti-fashion trend,” she explains. “We’re sort to individuals. We embrace individuals. There is not any should be tremendous pressured and chain-smoking cigarettes. I wished to create a peaceable, aware house.”
That ethos additionally extends into Ella Mae’s “earth-first” philosophy. Rising up off-grid in rural Colorado, surrounded solely by nature, it was a pure evolution for eco-consciousness to increase into Mae’s artistry. “I’ve this very earthy, grounded roots within me,” she says. “I used to be taking part in within the creeks and getting muddy. My dad and mom constructed each of our homes. It is inherent that my work can be associated to the earth.”
Photograph: Kate Kim/Courtesy of Ella Mae
In utility, Ella Mae predominantly makes use of pure fibers equivalent to cotton, in addition to deadstock materials. The label additionally makes use of pure dyes — derived from rust, botanical roots and meals waste — throughout its textile-making course of. “[How I view] nature is sort of tremendous religious to me,” Mae shares. “It is what we come from, and my work is providing again to the earth.” Every garment is produced in small batches regionally in Los Angeles.
Even on the subject of inspiration, Mae pulls from the setting. Except for referencing vintage every so often, she tries to keep away from seeing what different designers are doing. As an alternative, she’ll flip in direction of pure phenomena just like the motion of a tree or the way in which leaves fall, and see how that may take form in a garment.
The largest query that repeatedly toggles in Mae’s thoughts is how she will scale the model with out sacrificing its “earth-first” ethos. Ella Mae by no means mass-produced its garments — the biggest order it acquired was for 500 items, for which Mae and her assistants hand-dyed each merchandise — with no plans to enterprise into that manufacturing mannequin. Mae firmly believes that the label’s present small-batch mannequin can nonetheless efficiently accommodate wholesale demand.
Backstage at Ella Mae’s Spring 2025 present. Photograph: Morganne Boulden/Courtesy of Ella Mae
“We now have carried out wholesale previously and I believe I am open to persevering with with it,” she says. “Scaling is okay so long as it is mindfully carried out. We will at all times do wholesale sustainably so long as we select the appropriate companions with the appropriate intentions.”
For now, Mae’s been utilizing pop-ups as a progress technique. She’s capable of get her garments in entrance of a brand new viewers and let present followers strive them on IRL, all whereas nonetheless producing them in restricted batches. On June 5, the label held its first NYC pop-up, which Mae recollects was an astounding success.
“We actually had report gross sales and I used to be like, ‘That is unimaginable,'” she says. “However it’s not simply unimaginable for the gross sales — it was the truth that we will present up in one other place and other people come out, know concerning the model and are excited concerning the model.”
One among Ella Mae’s distinctive aggressive edges is that, regardless of its small-batch manufacturing and pure textiles, its choices are comparatively accessibly priced. Traditionally, most small, sustainable labels lean on the dearer facet. And whereas Ella Mae is unquestionably throughout the modern market — its most costly merchandise is $450 — it nonetheless sells attire priced underneath $100.
Photograph: Morganne Boulden/Courtesy of Ella Mae
Mae’s choice to implement a large value vary was to attract in new prospects who may be hesitant to speculate lots of of {dollars} in an unfamiliar product. “To have some merchandise at a extra entry-level value level is essential to me,” she says. “I’ve sacrificed somewhat bit on margins, however that is okay. Shopping for an entry-level piece lets individuals see the model, fall in love with it after which perhaps put money into a dearer costume down the road.”
In fact, Ella Mae’s custom-order enterprise additionally gives monetary wiggle room. “Proper now, now we have this cool matrix of in-house customs, made to order and manufacturing runs,” she provides. She’s gained a gradual clientele who’re keen on one-of-a-kind items.
The label has additionally caught the eye of movie star stylists. Most not too long ago, Barbara Palvin attended the 2026 Cannes Movie Pageant carrying a coffee-dyed chiffon costume from its Spring 2026 assortment. That purple carpet placement was pure destiny, Mae says. Stylist Marc Eram initially pulled the costume for a unique shopper who did not find yourself carrying it. “Marc had it on his stylist rack and Barbara got here by, noticed it on the rack, fell in love with it and he or she requested to put on it,” Mae says. “All the celebs aligned; she was made to put on it.”
Palvin’s look garnered press for Ella Mae, in addition to different manufacturers reaching out for collaboration alternatives. It leaves Mae excited to see what’s in retailer for her upcoming Spring 2027 assortment. “I’m actually jazzed occupied with who may put on this piece or who would look so good on this piece as a result of the showpieces are simply so particular and enjoyable,” she says.
As she focuses on growing her assortment, Mae can be working to land on the New York Fashion Week calendar. Her long-term purpose is to open a everlasting storefront.
“I’ve simply been attempting to be tremendous genuine to what I wish to make, what I wish to see and what I believe the world must see extra of,” she says. “So long as I am actually making from some extent of authenticity and pleasure, then my items will present that.”
