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Nestled within the northern Italian countryside, brushing shoulders with the Alps, are Falconeri‘s two cashmere factories in Biella and Avio. There, the 26-year-old Italian trend home oversees almost each stage of its manufacturing course of. This thorough oversight is intentional, because the time-honored craftsmanship attribute of Falconeri’s cashmere clothes doubles because the antithesis of quick trend.
“Falconeri believes that trendy luxurious is outlined by authenticity, distinctive craftsmanship, versatility and longevity,” Gianni Forlini, chief enterprise officer of Oniverse U.S., tells Fashionista over e mail. “From the choice of cashmere in Mongolia to the specialised experience of the groups in Biella and Avio, each stage displays the model’s dedication to the standard of pure supplies and the enduring worth of Italian textile know-how.”
Uncooked cashmere at Falconeri’s Biella manufacturing unit.
Photograph: Courtesy of Falconeri
Falconeri, which joined Oniverse Group (the father or mother firm of Calzedonia and Intimissimi) in 2009, begins its cashmere journey in Mongolia, the place it sources between 600,000 and 700,000 kg of uncooked cashmere fiber annually. Obtained by combing the smooth and delicate “cover” undercoat of Hircus goats, the uncooked fibers then arrive in Biella, a historic textile district, the place all of Falconeri’s cashmere is produced. There, greater than 57 specialised workers oversee a number of manufacturing phases spanning high quality management, dyeing, mixing, spinning, winding and twisting. Of observe, the spinning course of utilized in Falconeri’s Biella manufacturing unit has remained largely unchanged for greater than 80 years.
“Biella is internationally acknowledged for its centuries-old textile heritage and extremely specialised experience in processing premium pure fibers,” Forlini says. “The data developed and handed down by means of generations makes it a great atmosphere for remodeling uncooked Mongolian cashmere into refined yarn whereas preserving the fiber’s pure softness, size and power.”
Photograph: Courtesy of Falconeri
Every cashmere lot (about 1,000 kg) is examined for consistency, regularity and power, along with being sorted into shades of white, mild grey and brown. The fibers are dyed to suit Falconeri’s coloration palette, then combined inside temperature-controlled containers with water and a mineral-based oil to assist protect their size and integrity. A few week later, the fibers enter the spinning stage to wash and detangle the uncooked materials. The cashmere could be carded for softer yarns present in Falconeri’s Ultrasoft Cashmere, or combed for finer yarns as seen in its Ultrafine Cashmere.
Photograph: Courtesy of Falconeri
Lastly, the cashmere is prepared for winding — utilizing optical sensors to establish and take away imperfections, after which twisting — twirling particular person strands collectively for stronger yarn. The fibers then head to Falconeri’s second manufacturing unit in Avio, which sits on the foot of the Dolomites.
That is the place all of Falconeri’s items are assembled; roughly 7,000 clothes are completed every day. First, every yarn is evaluated for coloration consistency, measurement accuracy and pilling efficiency to make sure cohesion. Shima Seiki knitting machines flip yarn into separate garment sections (a sleeve right here, a again there), leaving expert technicians to assemble every bit by hand. As soon as assembled, closing checks embody washing and ending processes to spice up softness. At Avio, it takes greater than an hour to finish one Falconeri garment.
Photograph: Courtesy of Falconeri
“This shut integration [between Biella and Avio] permits Falconeri to mix Italian craftsmanship and textile experience with superior manufacturing know-how, whereas sustaining constant requirements throughout each assortment,” Forlini says.
Atop the Avio manufacturing unit sits Falconeri’s model division, the place the staff designs its womenswear and menswear collections. Sample making, prototyping, product improvement and garment building all occur beneath the Avio headquarters’ roof, which helps streamline collections. Falconeri’s new Fall 2026 knitwear will “stability timeless class with trendy relevance,” per the model. Designs are impressed by the pure world, explored by means of earthy hues of brown and burgundy in addition to wealthy textures. Wanting forward, Falconeri’s future collections will pivot to extra genderless capsules.
Photograph: Courtesy of Falconeri
Falconeri is more and more emphasizing its Ultrafine Cashmere assortment, which is comprised of two single strands of combed and twisted cashmere. Not like carded cashmere’s softer texture, combing ensures a extra sturdy yarn that resists pilling. The consequence? A light-weight cashmere (therefore its “ultrafine” classification) that can be thermoregulating, that means it helps keep a balanced temperature whatever the season. “This versatility challenges the standard notion of cashmere as a cloth reserved completely for chilly climate,” Forlini provides.
Photograph: Courtesy of Falconeri
Whereas overseeing almost each stage of manufacturing offers Falconeri a aggressive edge within the knitwear market, this uncommon stage of management additionally poses its personal problems. “The problem lies within the stage of coordination and specialised experience that this mannequin requires,” Forlini says. “Cashmere is an exceptionally delicate pure fiber, and each stage should be fastidiously managed to protect its size, softness, power and consistency.” In observe, Falconeri seeks out expert workers whereas persevering with to spend money on modern analysis to make sure its high quality requirements are met.
Since launching in 2000, Falconeri has taken its signature Italian craftsmanship world. At present, it operates greater than 200 boutiques throughout 22 nations, and goals to handle eight stores within the U.S. by the top of the yr. Regardless of this worldwide development, Falconeri’s ethos stays unchanged: “refined, versatile and made to be worn and appreciated over time,” per Forlini.
Disclosure: Falconeri paid for Fashionista’s journey and lodging to report this story.
